Should You Go On A Hunting Safari In Africa?

Some people go on safaris in order to enjoy the sights of nature, others to enjoy the outdoors in exotic locations. Still, others like to combine the two with their love of hunting. Traditionally, hunting safaris in Africa was the main draw and the source for the traditional look you'd expect from these, with khaki clothes, pith helmets, and all. For those who are looking for a new experience while hunting, a safari in Africa may be just what you need, though there are many things to consider.

The Animals

Years ago, you might go on a hunting safari in Africa expecting to bag a lion, or perhaps an elephant with some huge tusks. But due to the endangered status of many African animals, those sorts of safaris are merely a thing of the past. Still, you can expect to hunt exotic creatures like the kudu and the impala while on a hunting safari in Africa. And while you won't be allowed to shoot at any lions, for those looking to hunt tougher game, you can shoot a cheetah or leopard for your trophy.

The Guides

Most packages for hunting safaris in Africa include a personal guide, which can be a valuable asset for hunters. African game animals have plenty of natural predators to watch out for, so an experienced hunter can make the difference between a trophy and a miss when you're going after one of these highly-aware animals. Many companies that offer hunting safaris in Africa also give a guarantee that you'll get a trophy, since they're so confident in their guides. And best of all, even if you don't bag any game while out hunting, you'll still basically have your own personal guide; most hunting safaris in Africa consist of one or two guides and one or two customers.

The Cost

One thing that you do need to keep in mind while planning a hunting safari in Africa is that they do cost a lot of money. In order to prepare for such a trip, you would need to get a passport, immunize yourself against local diseases in some cases, and ship appropriate clothing and equipment to your destination country. And then, once you've bagged an animal, you often have to pay trophy fees; most hunting packages include a few in the cost, but only for specific animals. If you bag a leopard, for instance, you'll have to pay a hefty fee on top of what you've already spent. This can rapidly add to the cost of your trip. However, if you're willing to pay the cost, then a hunting safari in Africa might provide the unique hunting experience that you've been looking for.

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Should-You-Go-On-A-Hunting-Safari-In-Africa-/148502

The Best Hunting Knife for You

Before you head out to hunt your deer or wild turkey or whatever is in season, you need to decide on a hunting knife. Which knife is best for you? That depends on if you want something lightweight such as a folding knife or something sturdy and robust like the fixed-blade knife. Being prepared is what hunting is all about and having the right hunting knife is part of being prepared.

Folding Knives

Folding knives are more compact and easier to carry with you as you go along through the woods. Fixed-blade knives are sturdier and larger which adds to the safety of the overall knife. You must figure in their weight when calculating your packing and hiking materials. Do you want to carry something that heavy?

If you decide on a folding hunting knife, there are two options here. You can have a dedicated folding hunting knife, which means you only use this knife for hunting. It's best for butchering and field dressing. If you butcher your own animal then you need a knife that easily allows you to remove the hide. If you are only concerned with dressing the animal and allowing someone else to butcher it, then you don't need such a big hunting knife.

Fixed Blades

If you've decided on a fixed-blade knife, the same two options apply. Are you going to get a dedicated fixed-blade knife and only use it for butchering and field dressing or are you going to get a multipurpose knife that you can use for other things while you are camping and fishing? Let's say you only do the field dressing and let someone else do the butchering. You would choose a hunting knife that is more of a general purpose hunting knife and can multi task instead of only being used on the animal.

Hunting Knife Uses

If you are going camping and fishing and a multitude of other things you will need to do with your hunting knife, then we recommend an all-purpose hunting knife. This will allow you to field dress you animal, cut the line on a tangled fishing wire, cut the rope of the tent if needed and a host of other things. Whereas if you were just going hunting and field dressing and butchering your animal, you would want to go with a straight hunting knife.

Choosing the Best Hunting Knife for You

Two important things to remember when choosing your hunting knife and that are the handle length and the blade length. When you grip the handle, you should have approximately one-quarter inch on each side of your hand. This space allows for maximum comfort, especially when using the knife for extended periods of time. The length of the blade is usually preferred to be no longer than 4 inches long.

Blade Material

You might want to consider the blade material when choosing your hunting knife. Many blades are made of stainless steel to help prevent rust. Others are made with carbon steel because it makes sharpening the blade easier. Then there is the titanium nitrate coated on the blade to make it harder and sharpening easier. However, this requires a lot more care on your part.

Handle materials are also important when choosing your hunting knife. Traditional wood handles provide grip and is pleasing to the eye, other manufacturers wrap their handles with a tape to give you a better grip. There is now the rubber handle with texture that adds to your grip and the folded hunting knives are usually plastic and have a molded grip that comes with texture for a more durable handle and gripping comfort.

Hunting knives can have straight edges, serrated or hooked edges. It depends on what you are hunting and what your taste in knives is before you can clearly choose which knife you want. There are many places to shop for hunting knifes, on-line, the big sports super store or the department stores. Take your time and make sure you get the hunting knife that you are comfortable with and are going to be able to use. You don't want to get out in the woods and be stuck with a knife you can't use.

Last, but not least, make sure to check the tang before purchasing hunting or any knife. The tang is where the blade of the knife goes all the way into the handles of the knife and goes to the bottom. This gives the knife more stability and helps prevent breaking of the knife when you are using it constantly and heavily for something.

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/The-Best-Hunting-Knife-for-You/148497

Rifle Shooting Tip: Sighting In Your Rifle

Zeroing your sight on your rifle should be something you do during regular maintenance of your rifle. You'd be surprised how it drifts from zero, especially if you are transporting your rifle or if it gets bumped around. Take the time to zero your sight whenever you go to the practice range or arrive at your hunting site.

If you are on an extended hunting trip, you may want to recheck your sight every few days, as trudging through the wilderness can also affect your sight. If you are on horseback, this is more important, and if your rifle is tossed among your gear in the back of a pickup, it is even more important to recheck your rifle occasionally. If you're out hunting and you miss a shot that you think you should have gotten, that is another clue that you may need to adjust your sight.

What is zeroing your sight? You are aligning the crosshairs in your sight so they point where your gun barrel points. If you notice that you've got your target lined up just right in the crosshairs and your shot still misses its mark, your sight is off. With practice you'll be able to zero out your sight easily.
Choose a practice target about 25 yards away. Fire two or three shots, then examine where they hit. Are they close together? If they are within two or three inches, you are ready to adjust your sight. Adjust your rear sight in the direction you want to shoot. So, if you are shooting high, lower it. If you are shooting to the right of the target, move the rear sight to the left.

If you have a scope, adjust your crosshairs in the direction the scope tells you. For example, if you are shooting high and to the right, turn the screws "down" and "left" the correct amount of clicks. Now aim and shoot another two or three shots. Continue to repeat this process until your sight is aligned properly with your shot. To fine tune your rifle sight, once you may want to try again at 100 yards. Once you get the hang of this, you'll be able to do a really fast check to see if you're zeroed out properly, and you'll be able to align it quickly and easily.

If you just want to make sure before you take your shot, it is worth the cartridge to check it out at some point along the trail. Knowing that your sight is accurate will give you more confidence when your target comes into view.

Like anything else you are learning with your rifle, practice makes perfect. Spending the time to learn the ins and outs of using your rifle will make you a better hunter, and make your hunting trips more enjoyable, since you are more likely to return home with a good catch. Practice on your own and with other hunters. You can also learn tips from seasoned hunters that will help you be more efficient when it comes to adjustments and maintenance required on your rifle.

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Rifle-Shooting-Tip--Sighting-In-Your-Rifle/139859

Rifle Shooting Tips: 3 Tricks to Better Marksmanship

You can sum up in a single word what you need to become a successful rifle hunter: practice. From learning to track an animal to making an accurate shot, practice is the key to everything.

If you're new to rifles and hunting, start with the basics. Learn how to clean your weapon and how to keep it in optimal condition. Practice this so your rifle is ready when you are. Learn how to use your rifle. Learn how to load the ammunition, aim, and prepare for the kill. Practice. Take instruction from a marksmanship instructor if possible. You will learn many tips this way to use your rifle, and the regular practice will make it second nature to you. Learn how to deal with the recoil and the noise of the rifle. Work with it enough that you won't flinch when it happens.

Practice your shooting. You want to be confident in your ability to handle the gun, and in your ability to hit what you're aiming at. Shooting ranges are perfect for this. Practice shooting until you are confident in your abilities.

Practice trigger control. You can set up your body and your rifle for the perfect shot, and it will all be for naught if you don't have trigger control. Jerking or anticipating at the last minute will ruin it every time. Practice until you have developed the right technique for your rifle, because every one is a little different. Go to a shooting range or set up a private range of your own if you have an empty field.

Practice your shooting positions. What will happen if the only way you can get that elk is by lying down on the ground and you've never done it before? Most likely, the elk will get to live another day and you'll go home disappointed. Practice, practice, practice. You can practice positioning yourself quickly anywhere... even your living room. Just make sure if you are practicing with your rifle to make sure it is unloaded. Accidents happen, and thinking you'll be safe just this once won't make it so.

Practice your breathing and relaxation when you set up for a shot. If you can't get to a shooting range, visualize every step you take to aim and get ready to shoot, and practice the breathing and relaxation needed for a steady shot.

Practice setting your scope and checking it for accuracy. If you rely on your scope and it has gotten out of whack, you won't hit your target. Practice this skill until you do it automatically.

Practice your kill shot. Don't wing an animal so it is injured but able to lose you in the forest. Know the best spots to aim for, and be able to set up the shot in moments. Your first shot should either be fatal, or close enough that your second shot is all that is needed to finish the job.

Practice shooting until you can call your shots. If it went off to the left, you should be able to tell. If it went too low, you should know that too. By practicing enough year round, you will ensure your success in hunting season.

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Rifle-Shooting-Tips--3-Tricks-to-Better-Marksmanship/139662

Becoming An Efficient Wild Duck Caller

There is no such thing as a born wild duck caller because it takes lots of practice in order to become an efficient caller. Fortunately, anybody from any location can become a good wild duck caller with the proper training and patience. Calling wild duck is a very important aspect for wild duck hunting because if properly done, it can greatly improve the overall hunting efficiency of the hunter. Of course, in order to become a good wild duck caller, every hunter needs to follow some basic wild duck hunting tips:

• Purchasing a high quality call - it doesn't matter how well prepared is the hunter or how skillful he is regarding the procedure of calling wild ducks, without using a good call all the efforts are useless and the wild duck hunting experience won't be fruitful at all. As far as wild duck calls is concerned the expression : " you get what you pay for " is entirely true. A high quality wild duck call will allow the hunter to produce the entire range of sounds that a hen mallard produces. These calls will also allow the hunter to make these sounds time after time and also year after year that is why experienced hunter recommend future wild duck hunters not to get cheap when it comes down to purchasing a call.

• Imitating the wild duck sound ( duck call operation ) - the next order of business is about the ability of the hunter to sound just like the wild duck which means that the hunter needs to learn how exactly he can operate a wild duck call so that he will sound just like one. The key elements in this step are practice and patience because without these two parts, nothing noticeable will be accomplished. The very first thing to do is to start with the basics and get the hang of them before moving to more complex operations. Speaking of the basics, the first things to learn are the quack and the feeder chuckle and these two are considered the foundation for the rest of the calls done with the wild duck caller. A very important advice that is brought by experienced hunters and wild duck callers is to practice the entire year, not just before the wild duck hunting season starts.

• Observing the birds and adapting the calling style - the last important step to becoming an efficient wild duck caller is to learn how to read the birds. The hunter will be chasing these animals in many different conditions which means that the hunting style needs to adapt to the hunting environment. After learning all the basics, what the hunter needs to do is to master call cadences and tempos. This will help the hunter to sound more like a wild duck ( instead of sounding like a person that is using a wild duck call ). Due to the fact that not all wild ducks sound exactly the same and they also don't have the same tempo or volume, the goal is to sound like a lot of different wild ducks. This is possible only if the hunter masters cadence, volume variations and the tempo.

All things considered, learning how to be an efficient wild duck caller isn't a very hard thing to do but it requires a lot of practice, patience and a good call. Besides all these, searching for some wild duck hunting tips will surely increase the chances of becoming an efficient wild duck hunter/caller.

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Becoming-An-Efficient-Wild-Duck-Caller/140039

Rifle Shooting Tips: Choosing the Right Time to Fire

You should choose your shot carefully. Ideally, you want to drop your target with the first shot. But you also need to decide when a shot is good enough you may wait for the perfect shot that never comes and you'll miss out entirely.

Of course, everyone would love to get that perfect broadside shot, where the deer stands perfectly still, giving you a lot of time to set up your shot before squeezing the trigger and downing the deer with a perfect shot through the lungs and heart. Unfortunately for hunters, this situation is extremely rare, if it happens at all.

If you can get a quartering angle, where the deer is at a three-quarters angle, still giving you a decent shot, go for it. As long as you have a good shot of hitting the target in the heart/lung area, the shot is good enough. Don't aim for the head, it moves with no warning, and more often than not results in an escaped animal or an injured animal that you will lose. The same goes for neck and spine shots. These areas are small, and the chances of hitting them just right are too small to gamble on the majority of the time. A good heart/lung shot will take the animal down quickly. If your animal is only giving you a quarter view this type of shot will still accomplish your goal.

When you are practicing, visualize the animal from different angles and line up your shot accordingly. Study the anatomy of the animals you'll be hunting, and you'll soon be able to know at a glance whether you can make a good shot or not. The ability to make the decision to shoot is important to your success in the field. Animals certainly aren't going to wait for you to feel comfortable. Knowing when a shot is good enough to risk it will enable you to bring home more venison than if you hesitate too long or shoot without assessing your shot.

Avoid going-away shots on an unwounded animal, chances are if you do hit it, the animal will just run off and you'll never find it. Straight-on shots are similar, though you have a better chance with this angle than you do on a target that is moving away from you.
Another obstacle to the perfect shot may be your surroundings. While it is preferable not to shoot through brush, sometimes it is unavoidable. Line up your shot as best you can. If possible, practice shooting through brush, twigs, foliage, anything you would encounter while you are hunting. This will make you comfortable with these difficult shots. Practice shooting from a blind, up in a tree, or anywhere else you may decide to hide. This will make you a confident hunter that will be more successful in the long run.

Now you know what you need to do to improve your judgment on when to shoot at your target. As with everything else in life, practice makes perfect. The more comfortable you are with your abilities, the better off you'll be in the woods.

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Rifle-Shooting-Tips--Choosing-the-Right-Time-to-Fire/142946

LED Ultraviolet Lights And How They Serve Us

Ultraviolet flashlights are useful tools that are being utilized by law enforcement authorities and the military all over the world to aid in the uncovering of counterfeit materials, for detecting blood and other evidence, to help find hidden explosives so they can be destroyed, for intelligence gathering, in the capturing of criminals, and much more. Many policing and military professionals report that the ultraviolet flashlight is a critical tool to have in their arsenals for fighting the criminal element and for providing security here at home and abroad.

What is ultraviolet light? The sun produces infrared, ultraviolet, and visible light rays and each has different wavelengths. It is the length of these wavelengths that makes some light easy for us to see, and other light that is mostly undetectable to us unless we are using special equipment to view it. The light you see from the sun during the day has a longer wavelength and is therefore more visible than say ultraviolet light, which has a shorter wavelength. Ultraviolet light produces minimal visible light rays and is instead characterized by a deep blue or purple light ray that is most visible at night or when other light sources are blocked.

LED and ultraviolet flashlights incorporate the use of different lighting components to produce light beams for use in a variety of settings. The technological lighting components in ultraviolet flashlights use the shorter and concentrated wavelength of ultraviolet lighting to illuminate small particles that are rendered nearly or completely invisible by the intensity of longer wavelengths of lighting. A police flashlight with ultraviolet light technology is useful in the detecting of blood evidence, fibers, minerals and substances and other evidence that cannot be seen with the naked eye, and when other light sources are serving as the backdrop.

An ultraviolet flashlight can be used to detect counterfeit money and for finding traces of drugs like cocaine on money. This is useful in tracking down those criminals that manufacture and distribute counterfeit money and also many of the criminals that engage in drug trafficking. Money is not the only item counterfeiter's target. Art, clothing, jewelry, passports, social security cards, and other things can also be counterfeited. Detecting counterfeit items with the use of ultraviolet flashlights gets more of them off the streets before innocent people are victimized by the purchasing of fake items.

The military has also found the versatility of LED and ultraviolet flashlights helpful in their fight against terrorism as well as in previous covert military operations. Our military forces are stationed throughout the world on peace keeping and anti-terrorism missions, including the war in Iraq. The ultraviolet flashlight plays an important role in military maneuvers, surveillance, detection, and in a variety of other military activities.

Protecting our communities means equipping our police officers, investigators, and other members of the policing team with the versatility and advantages of LED flashlights. If you are in charge of procuring equipment for your military squad or regiment, make sure ultraviolet flashlights are on your purchasing list. The ultraviolet flashlight is a powerful tool for enhancing your arsenal of weapons against criminals and for defending the innocent.

~Ben Anton, 2008

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/LED-Ultraviolet-Lights-And-How-They-Serve-Us/144732

Strobing LED Flashlights: Police and Military Uses

Law enforcement, government agencies and independent developers have all been searching for non-lethal and less forceful methods of subduing criminals and enemies. The use of tasers, rubber bullets and various gases and sprays have all been, and are all being, studied to find out how much damage, both short term and long term, they do. Some of the newest and most promising devices are being developed using an existing flashlight feature - strobing LED light.

While it may seem a little silly to think that a pulsing light can stop a criminal intent on breaking the law or committing violence, it is actually very effective. Just think about how disorienting it can be when a bright light is suddenly turned on in a dark room. Most people will squint or turn their head when light is suddenly introduced. In a lot of cases, that is all an officer needs to get the upper hand.

The light emitting diode, or LED, bulb is well suited for this type of application. We most often come into contact with these lights in our electronic devices. They are the kind of bulb used to let you know that the power is on. Over the last ten years they have started to play a bigger role in everyday lighting. They are prominent fixtures in the world of outdoor lighting equipment (think flashlights, lanterns and headlamps). There are many towns that are starting to replace their standard traffic lights with ones made with LEDs. These lights are also being used as home lighting replacement bulbs and around the landscaping. LED bulbs burn much brighter on less energy, are very durable, last for longer spans of time and can come in a variety of colors.

Strobing lights have the effect of disorienting the communication between our eyes and our brains. This forces someone looking at them to have to look away or flee from the pulsing of the light. Police officers have been using strobe flashlights for several years as a means to stop fleeing suspects by stunning and confusing them. This non-violent means of incapacitating a criminal is being looked at for wider use.

CBS News ran a story recently on what is being called the LED Incapacitator. This LED light takes this strobing concept to the next level without losing the inherent benefits of an LED bulb. It uses some specific light frequencies that affect the brain and then cycles through those frequencies too fast for the brain to adjust. The light also shifts through various colors to cause additional confusion. This new police tactical light is bright enough to be used in both brightly lit environments as well as the dark.

Not only are these tactical flashlights helpful for law enforcement officers and the military, they are also considered beneficial for personal defense. Strobing LED flashlights are available to the public for use in their own safety. With a push of the button, a general LED flashlight can turn into a strobing light in the event of an attack while in a parking garage or walking home at night. This pulsing light can provide a few extra seconds to get away or call out for help. Some who do not wish to carry pepper spray will find this an excellent alternative.

Strobing flashlights and torches are innovative and potentially life saving. As new devices are being created for our uniformed professionals, we may see more and more derivatives of those products available to the public.

~Ben Anton, 2008

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Strobing-LED-Flashlights--Police-and-Military-Uses/144784

LED Flashlights: Getting the Most From Color Bulbs

Colored LED lights have many uses from professional to recreational. Green, red, blue, and ultraviolet lights have all found their way into the realm of LED flashlights. The uses are varied and each color has particular uses that they are best suited for. All of the colored lights are great for night vision applications because they do not bleach out the chemicals that allow for the human eye to see at night.

The red LED bulb has been added to flashlights to enhance night vision. It provides great contrast and is not visible to the human eye over long distances. It also works well with night vision scopes and goggles. Photographers use the red colored light when doing night-time photography because it provides contrast while preserving the natural shadows developed by darkness. It cuts through smoke better than white light and, with the exception of red lines and marks on maps and charts, it makes reading in low, or no, light possible. Police and military units like the red LED for night operations because it will not interfere with night vision technology and can't easily be picked up by other people.

The green LED light is preferred by hunters and fishermen because it is a very soft light that will not spook their prey. Green also does not attract insects like white or yellow light does. It is not easily picked up, unless looking directly at it, so it is useful in covert operations. It is another color that is useful in smoke filled environments.

The blue LED hand-held light is good for map or chart reading in situations where night vision, and avoiding detection, are important. Blue light is also helpful in locating blood and other bodily fluids at crime scenes or during search and rescue operations. Hunters also find the blue light helpful in following blood trails of injured animals. Blue lights are often used in small keychain lights because they are a soft light that works well to illuminate locks, keys, and small items. It does not have the same harsh glare as the bright, white LED. These lights are also good for cutting through fog.

Ultraviolet LED lights have found many uses in the professional world. They are used to detect counterfeit money, art, and antiques. They are also used to detect trace blood proteins and chemicals in soils from crime scenes. Just like blue light, this one will pick out blood and other bodily fluids that might be missed by the naked eye. Ultraviolet light acts like a black light in entertainment uses. It can bring out hidden messages and enhances neon and fluorescent colors. Ultraviolet lights can be used to recharge luminescent objects like fishing lures, watch faces, compass needles, SAR signals, etc. It is important not to shine ultraviolet LED lights directly into the eyes, as it can cause injury.

Whether looking to preserve night vision for hunting applications or to cut through smoke in a burning building colored LED lights are great for many applications. Their multitude of uses make them a must have for everyone. Flashlights are offered in single color lighting or with multiple bulbs for a choice of lighting options. This means that the right light is always available when it is needed. So, whether looking for a single light color for a specific application or multiple choices for whatever comes up, colored LED flashlights are a great choice.

~ Ben Anton, 2008

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/LED-Flashlights--Getting-the-Most-From-Color-Bulbs/144832

Choosing the Right Archery Bow

Choosing the right archery bow is a very personal choice, but a very important one. Many factors come into play, and fortunately there are many different bows available on the market for you to choose from. Choosing the correct bow will greatly increase your comfort while shooting, and will increase your accuracy.

The correct bow for you should have the proper draw weight and draw length. This means that it will draw back far enough (but not too far!) and with the proper amount of tension. Many archery shops will be able to measure you, to determine your ideal draw length. An ideal draw weight should be one that you can comfortably draw back and hold for at least 60 seconds.

Another factor to consider is the axle-to-axle length (ATA) of the bow. This is the distance between the points where the two respective cams are attached. Bows with longer ATA's are generally considered more forgiving and easier to draw back, but remember that if you are hunting you may not always have a lot of space available!

Whether you choose a single cam, dual cam, or hybrid cam style bow will depend on your style of shooting. Single cams tend to draw smoother, while dual cams are generally faster. Hybrid cams offer a mix of the two, and are relatively new to the market.

These aren't all of the factors to consider when choosing the right archery bow, but it should be enough to get you started on the right track. The best thing to do it to shop around! Try to shoot several bows by several manufacturers and see which one suits you best. Choosing the correct bow will prove to be a wise decision for many years to come.

Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com/Article/Choosing-the-Right-Archery-Bow/4933

Choosing the Right Weapon for Elk and Deer Hunting

As with any sport, your choice of equipment will determine your degree of success when hunting deer and elk. When choosing a rifle, you should consider how it feels in your hands, how it fits to your shoulder, the weight, the sights, and its action and caliber. A gun of the right weight, with a good fit, will help you shoot more accurately.

Take time to carefully consider the length of the stock when shopping for hunting rifles. Stock lengths vary among different rifle manufacturers and models, and a stock that's too long can be a problem - and if the stock is too short, the scope can strike your eyebrow. If needed, a gunsmith can change the length of the stock. Another problem with an improper fit, especially for larger men, is the "drop" - the distance between your cheek and the stock. When you press your cheek against the stock of the rifle, your shooting eye should line up with the sites. Too much drop will prevent you from placing your cheek against the stock, and the recoil could cause the stock to smack you in the face.

The weight of the rifle is another consideration. Most hunting rifles weigh between six and nine pounds. Lighter guns are much more comfortable to carry, but heavier rifles have less kick when fired. It may seem antithetical to buy a heavier rifle if you're going to be carrying it around with you all day, but heavy rifles are easier to hold steady, and they're more accurate when stand hunting or shooting long range. In densely populated areas where rifle hunting isn't allowed, Shotguns and slugs are commonly used, and some states permit the use of shotguns with buckshot. The ideal shotgun for deer hunting is one with a rifled barrel and special sights, or a scope. Rifled barrels shoot slugs more accurately than smoothbore shotguns - rifling makes the slugs to spin and stabilize, allowing shots at deer up to 100 yards away. You shouldn't use anything smaller than a 20 gauge shotgun for deer hunting - 12 gauge is the most popular.

Bowhunting offers a higher level of difficulty and a number of unique challenges, but also offers a longer hunting season when hunting deer and elk. Most bowhunters use a compound bow - a bigger, heavier bow that uses cams and pulleys for additional power and speed. Each state has a legal minimum for draw weight for hunting bows, usually between 35 and 45 pounds. Despite its increased difficulty - or perhaps because of it - some hunters choose to use a traditional bow and arrow for deer hunting. There are hunters who also use crossbows for hunting, as well.

A good sporting goods store or gun shop will have staff who can help you find the right weapon, no matter what your level of expertise. Having the right weapon is only half the key to successful deer and elk hunting, though - the rest is skill, patience and just plain luck.

Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com/Article/Choosing-the-Right-Weapon-for-Elk-and-Deer-Hunting/9173

Giving an Airsoft Gun as a Gift? 4 Tips to help You Shop Smart

"You'll shoot your eye out, kid!" is the infamous catchphrase from the holiday classic, "A Christmas Story". You know the one. Ralphie wants nothing more for Christmas than a Red Rider BB gun. But every person he tells about his wish tells him the catchphrase. Alas, the happy ending includes Ralphie getting his wish, and of course, shooting his "eye out". This section of the movie has played over and over again in the minds of gift-givers across the country, as well as any part of the world that has been lucky enough to see this flick.

If you have a gift recipient who has a BB or paint gun on their list, and you just don't feel safe with BB's flying around, nor are you thrilled about having tiny splotches of soap/paint all over potentially missed targets, then an airsoft gun is the perfect gift. The BB's used are made of plastic, are significantly larger than traditional metal BB's, and are not designed to harm anyone or anything. These traits are helping to make airsoft guns a favorite of gun enthusiasts around the globe.

To help you pick out the perfect airsoft gun for your recipient, we've come up with the top 4 tips to help you shop smart for your purchase. They are:

1.) Find a real company with a business address, not just a post office box. There are a lot of scam artists out there on the World Wide Web preying on unknowing, trusting customers, so making your purchase from such a company will help to ease your mind and protect your payment information. A secure site, like one with the Verisign or other type of security logo will help to keep your payment information protected.

2.) Check to make sure the company has a decent return policy. Too many times a company's lack of return policy is found out too late.

3.) My personal favorite- a troubleshooting area on their website. This is especially important for beginners that don't know all there is to know about these guns. Instead of spending hard-earned money shipping the product back for service (not to mention the time without the gun), a troubleshooting section will help you over the humps of the technological and basic aspects of the gun.

4.) A variety of guns for you to choose from, as well as every possible accessory (BB's, lubricants, batteries, chargers, tactical gear, etc.) Even if you're buying for a newbie to the industry and choose to start at the beginning with a small, basic gun, you'll be gaining a lot of know how from (not to mention the trust you'll get for) the company. The ability to add on and move up within the products in the same online store will yield many years of loyal service from both sides of the proverbial cash register.

Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com/Article/Giving-an-Airsoft-Gun-as-a-Gift--4-Tips-to-help-You-Shop-Smart/10726

Geese Hunting: Helpful Tips and Tricks

From a distance the Canada goose is easily identified. His body is brown, neck and head black, but his head wears a triangular white patch. He is the biggest of our geese, and is found either as a resident or a migrator over most of the United States.

In the spring and fall, he is seen flying very high in great long wedges to and from his wintering and summer breeding grounds, coming down into city parks, reservations and sanctuaries for a rest period and for food.

Their voices are strong as they are heard uttering a loud resonant "honk" in flight or on the water. While feeding, or together on a pond, they talk in little intimate cries and grunts.

This is the hunter's bird, being the most sought after of the geese. As a result "Canada" has become exceedingly wary, putting down only after having scanned and circled the area with much care. Their sharp eyes can quickly spot a hunter and the best of blinds can be discovered. Second only to the wild swans, the Canada is a big bird on the dinner table, weighing from seven to fourteen pounds, with a wing spread of between five and six feet.

This goose generally nests on the ground near the water. The type of nest depends on the locality. It is usually a slight depression in the ground lined with material from the vicinity such as sticks, flag grass and soft grey down from the goose's breast. At other times the nests are large bulky affairs. In some parts of the country when the terrain demands, the nests are in trees, but never far from the water and preferably right above it.

During the breeding season the gander, or male goose shows off his staunchness as the family guard and defender. If you approach the nest they will at first look at you with contempt. Come closer and they will become alarmed and hiss, wave their powerful wings and be ready to pick a fight.

The author has had many a battle with them without so much as provoking one, so true to their cause do they become when an intruder comes by. Don't underestimate their powerful wings; they can knock you down very easily and, even though they have no teeth in their bills, they are sharp, and if they bite you, the cut can be quite severe.

Unlike the ducks, both parents are quite taken up with caring for the young. When swimming on the water, the gander usually leads, the little ones follow and then mother takes up the tail of the parade.

Their food is largely vegetable matter. They love to graze in the stubble fields and the prairies. Pasture lands are their pleasure, particularly during the fall migration, for they burn up a great deal of energy during the flight, which must be replaced. Quite often, clouds of them will descend on a farmer's corn field, even though there is little or no water nearby. They have been known to be quite destructive in this habit.

The Canada is one of the earliest water birds to migrate northward in the spring. How it is they know that the ice is melted from the lakes, when they are wintering one or two thousand miles south, is a mystery, but they know it and proceed.

After the summer molt they become quite inactive. Then they begin to gain back their flight feathers, begin to assemble in flocks and become restless. On a cool night when the winds are right, they will take off on the first leg of a long journey, husbands and wives flying together.

They are masters at knowing flight patterns and wind resistance. Their flying wedge is so designed that the lead goose breaks the currents for the rest of the wedge. After a spell, the lead goose drops back to the end of the line and the succession continues so that no bird takes the brunt of the wind.

Now you know its habits, have fun stalking the Canada goose!

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Geese-Hunting--Helpful-Tips-and-Tricks/143735

The Anatomy of a Knife

The knife is such a common object in our everyday lives that most of us fail to see what a complex tool it actually is. Most of us think that a knife has only two distinct parts: the handle and the blade. But, in truth, the knife is much more complex, comprising six separate parts.

When you try to visualize a knife, you will most likely think of the blade. The metallic part that extends away from the handle is officially termed the blade. A cutting edge is ground onto one side of the blade and the tasks a knife is suited for are determined essentially by the shape of its blade.

For instance, a knife can be used for skinning, filleting, chopping, and a number of other duties, depending on the shape of the blade. The strength and durability of the knife depends on the kind of steel it is made of. It is best to make blades out of stainless steel because it has a long life and is more hygienic. Stainless steel does not rust or corrode and it is germ resistant.

The point of the knife performs the task of piercing and stabbing things. We use the point to help gut and clean game as it can pierce through the membrane around the skin and help us get to the meat of the quarry.

The tip, according to many knife experts, is the top quarter of the knife blade. This is the part of the knife that is most used as it does the cutting and chopping. Some consider the point to be part of the tip, though they are actually separate parts of the knife.

The cutting edge is the part of the knife that is...well, designed to cut things. It is the part of the blade (facing away from you) that has been sharpened and honed so that it cuts through whatever needs cutting. While there are several types of edges available, the straight and serrated edges are most common. A serrated edge is good for cutting things like bread while the straight edge is better for trimming meat.

The handle is probably the other part of a knife, besides the blade, that people are most familiar with. Handles can be made using a variety of materials including wood, steel, plastic...basically, the sky is the limit.

The butt of the knife is much like the butt of a gun: it is located at the far end of the handle or the exact opposite of the tip. This is where some companies place a compass that can be pulled out to reveal storage space for things like matches and other survival essentials.

These days, there are hand guards that come with some knives, especially survival knives, which essentially protect your hands from accidentally slipping towards the blade. Hand guard or no hand guard, you should be familiar with the basic parts of a knife to reduce your chances of being injured while using one. You should also learn how to maintain and sharpen your knife to make it last as long as possible.

Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com/Article/The-Anatomy-of-a-Knife/10763

Puma Hunting Knife Review; Putting the cutting edge under the scope

When it comes to hunting knives, Puma is considered by most experts to be the elite, the cream of the crop, the absolute cutting edge in design, utility and pure class. Well-designed of the best quality materials, PUMA knives don't come cheap - but they're quality all the way. Each blade is hand-ground, and each knife is assembled by hand. The materials and workmanship have made PUMA knives more than the best quality knife to have in the field - they're collectors' items in their own right.

In 1953, the company changed its direction slightly to focus on manufacturing functional hunting, fishing, survival, sporting and outdoor knives. In 1956, PUMA designed what is probably its most famous knife ever, the PUMA White Hunter, for an East African hunting organization. For over 200 years, Solingen, Germany has been the source of the finest knives made anywhere in the world, and since 1920, the best of those knives have borne the name PUMA.

Why PUMA?
PUMA knives are made from premium DI.4 steel, each individually drop forged and hardened to hold the keenest possible edge. Each model has a number and a name engraved on the blade, along with the year of its manufacture - a bonus for collectors, who find it easy to date PUMA knives when assigning values. The handles are made of all natural materials, usually stag horn or bone, and every detail is made of the finest material available.

PUMA Knives for Hunting and Sporting
The most popular PUMAs are those that have stood the test of time. Among the most well-known and prized are:

PUMA Bowie Knife
Bowie is the ultimate name in hunting knives, with its wide fixed blade that makes it ideal for hunting, fishing, camping and self-defense. The PUMA Bowie is a full 11" long with a single-edged blade, a genuine stag handle, and a fully riveted tang. This is the knife that Jim Bowie dreamed of when he first commissioned the knife that bears his name.

PUMA Skinner Knife
Skinning knives are a must for hunters, and the PUMA is designed with a blade long enough to give you the option of using a straight, curved or pointed edge to simplify the tasks you need it to perform. It also has a 5 ½" stag handle that's carved to fit your hand comfortably, and a finger guard to keep your fingers out of harm's way when dealing with a wet, slippery knife.

PUMA White Hunter
Perhaps the most famous hunting knife ever designed, the White Hunter features a partially serrated blade that is shaped to make all the tasks you use a knife for easier. It's 11" long overall with a full, fully riveted tang, a built-in finger guard and a genuine stag horn handle. It was first released in 1956, and has grown more popular over the decades. The 50th Anniversary model is destined to be the ultimate gift for a collector of fine knives. It's a truly luxurious blade forged of Damascus stainless steel Rockwell tested to 55-60 hardness. The handle is of ebony with nickel silver bolsters, and the included black leather sheath is accented with nickel silver. To further increase its interest to collectors, PUMA is only manufacturing 50 of the 50th Anniversary edition worldwide. It's the gift of a lifetime for a serious knife collector.

-2006 Ben Anton

Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com/Article/Puma-Hunting-Knife-Review--Putting-the-cutting-edge-under-the-scope/11246

Never Be In The Woods While Hunting

This article is for true hunters. I want to help all of you out there that have been hunting for years with little luck. This is not a fluffy article it is the truth and I will give you the facts. From years of hunting and thousands of dollars wasted I have found what works. I like to be comfortable while hunting and I don't like to come home empty handed. The number one thing for hunting success is not to be in the woods. How many times have you been in the woods and a deer finally stumbles upon you to look you in the eyes, snort and stomp, then split before you can shoot? If you were not in the woods that would never have happened. What about the time it was so cold so you bundled up walked a few miles climb up a tree and then spooked the buck of a life time because the wind changed? Again if you were not in the woods that would never have happened.

This is another way to explain this to you. While you go out shopping I get a hunting suite the same exact color and pattern of your wall and stand their motionless. What is the chance you will know something is not right? Now how about I go get a dog house popup blind and sit it in the corner of your house and it's the same color and patter of whatever the area is? I think there would be no fooling you at all! I know what if I got something that smelled familiar to you and poured it all over myself? Would any of these scenarios or and combination together fool you? Most likely not!

What I am getting at is when we are out hunting it's exactly like walking into someone's home. The ticket is not to be noticeable. That might sound "goofy" as this is what you already know this. The issue here is you and every other hunter has been conditioned to hunt a specific way! The wrong way!

If we setup a contest say an Indian that hunted for his survival and us that do it for sport who would kill the game first. It doesn't even come down to reasons for hunting but technique. Do not be in the woods while hunting! You must be part of the woods while hunting. Stand out as little as possible! The following are a few hunting techniques I use and that do work. I also suggest to limit your spending to a few hunting products that do work and then you will not have to buy anything but bullets and a license for years to come.

The best technique that you can possibly use that entails a little effort is digging a hole. If you can dig a hole you can kill deer! I have killed may deer while hole hunting. You dig a hole in the summer about 4' deep you can hunt from it. This is a great strategy for many reasons.

• You can see under brush easily to see feet coming at you.
• Your scent is greatly masked under ground
• You will not get cold from breezes or wind
• You can put a char inside that hole that is comfortable
• You have the steadiest gun rest ever made (the ground)
• If for some reason they see movement they usually think you are a small animal
• Lastly it will keep you from getting shot while hunting!

I really only use 2 things while hunting like this a blanket or pull bag and a ground blind. The best portable ground blind I have found for this type of hunting is The Scope Blind. You can get it here. I like this blind best because it is light and is not fixed to the ground. I can turn in my hole or any cover to conceal myself regardless how the deer come to me. Remember stay away from cover scents, use small blinds and dig a hole. Remember your friends may laugh at you as mine did but they will also compliment you on the deer jerky!

Source: http://www.therealarticles.com/Article/Never-Be-In-The-Woods-While-Hunting/144304

Travel Tips; A checklist from the Outdoor Experts at DLK

If you're planning a road trip, a little pre-planning goes a long way toward making your journey pleasant and safe. Before you head out on the road, take the time to go through this travel checklist to be sure you've covered all the bases.
A. Car Safety Checklist
a. Check the fluids.
- Check the oil, and top up if necessary. Better yet, have an oil change if you're traveling any long distances. When adding oil, always use the weight recommended for your vehicle.
b. Check all your belts for wear, cracking or tears. Have any that show signs of wear replaced.
c. Check the wiper blades. If it's been a year or more since they've been replaced, do it. Trying to peer through smeared raindrops is a recipe for disaster.
d. Check your tires. Make sure that they're inflated to recommended PSI, and that the tread isn't dangerously worn.
B. Emergency Kit
Being prepared in an emergency can spell the difference between inconvenience and tragedy. You can purchase a roadside emergency kit with most of these items in it then add to it, or put together one of your own from scratch. In either case, keep all the items together and easily accessible so that you'll be able to get to them if you need them.

- A flashlight is a must - most experts suggest two. Do yourself a favor and opt for the best LED flashlight you can find. LED lights tend to be far more durable and can take being knocked around in the boot of your car. They draw less power from the battery, so are less likely to run out of juice just when you need them most. A handheld torch and a lantern are both good ideas. Tossing a couple of inexpensive LED penlight flashlights in the glove can prove handy for map reading and lighting the way to the john if needed.
- A first aid kit is another must. A prepackaged one with bandages, gauze, tape, antibiotic, antiseptic and other basic first aid necessities should be fine.
- Emergency roadside flares can save your life by making you easy to see from a distance. Standard roadside flares can fail to work if they're damp, and can be dangerous. A number of companies make LED safety lights and roadside LED safety flares that can mark your position on the road shoulder, or serve as an emergency beacon if you're lost.
- A multi-tool or utility knife will come in handy. A fixed blade hunting knife and pocket knife will give you all the cutting edges you need for most emergency situations.
- Aerosol tire sealant can get you to the next service station in the event of a tire puncture.
- A blanket to wrap up in if need be.
- Jumper cables
- Bottled water
- An extra gallon of engine coolant. While you're at it, tuck away an extra quart of oil and a pint of transmission fluid.

C. First Aid Kit
- Acetaminophen, ibuprofen, and aspirin tablets
- Antihistamine
- Anti-nausea/motion sickness medication

D. Health and Comfort
a. Pack a cooler of healthy snacks, juices and water and keep it stocked.

-2006 Ben Anton

Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com/Article/Travel-Tips--A-checklist-from-the-Outdoor-Experts-at-DLK/18039

Shopping for Hunting Supplies and Equipment

Hunting supplies have become more sophisticated and available over the years. With power house stores like Cabelas and Bass Pro Shops, the offerings go past the traditional brick and mortar store to their overwhelming online presence.

Looking for hunting supplies and equipment? The hunting stores of today carry all your traditional hunting supplies plus a wide offering of other outdoor products. You will find everything to support your next hunting expedition.

Before buying hunting supplies from a hunting store, you might want to use the following guidelines:

1. If you desire to shop for hunting supplies from home or just check out prices and product availability, make sure the hunting store has a web site.

2. Find out what the return policy is for each hunting supply store. Some have a strict 30-day money-back guarantee and others are more liberal.

3. Product quality is paramount when shopping for hunting supplies, especially if shopping online. Most of your top tier hunting stores, that are extremely customer focus will go out of their way to provide top quality products. But make sure you understand if they will stand behind every product or require you to contact the manufacturer.

4. Try to do one-stop shopping for your hunting supplies especially if you are shopping online. This will save you in added shipping and handling fees.

Customer initiatives are paramount for the success of any hunting supply store. If they aren't focused on you then there are many other hunting stores around. Finding a customer centered store will alleviate many headaches and frustrations in the long run.

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Source: http://www.rightarticle.com/Article/Shopping-for-Hunting-Supplies-and-Equipment/46690

The Top 10 Ways to Hunt Successfully From a Tree Stand

The vast majority of hunters wait for their game in tree stands.

That waiting might be for several hours, or even a whole day at a time.

It can be a very effective technique, especially for the whitetail deer which are the most hunted species in North America.

The key to success or failure lies in being in the right place at the right time.

Sounds easy!

But it's what separates the consistently successful hunters from the rest.

So how do you go about being in the right place at the right time?

When hunting deer, almost all activity revolves around:
* Food
* Cover
* Travel routes between food and cover

The following 10 steps should increase your success when hunting from a tree stand.

1) When looking at deer tracks, note the direction of the tracks. Trails or runways being used to reach the feeding areas are likely to be most productive during afternoon or evenings.

Those leaving the feeding areas often produce the best results in the morning.

Trails with tracks going in both directions should be good at any time

2) The wind direction. You should site your stand downwind from where you expect the deer to come from.

Alternative sites should be chosen to accommodate different wind directions, so that no matter which direction the wind is blowing, you have a location to hunt

3) If using a bow your stand should be sited within your accurate shooting range of where you expect to see the deer.
If using a rifle, you can be farther away to reduce detection

4) The route in to the site. Try to choose a site that allows you to reach it without getting busted by the deer on your way in

5) Location of other hunters. If you are close to other hunters your success rate drops due to more scent, noise, etc in the area

6) Availability of trees. Finding the right type of tree for your stand, and in the right location can be a challenge

7) The type of stand you hunt with. You may have to change your type of stand to suit the environment

8) The height you are confident shooting from. Its no good climbing to a height that puts you out of your confident bow range

9) The height you are comfortable climbing to and have the skills to shoot from

10) Choose several sites so that if the wind changes or deer movements change, you have an alternative site that meets the above criteria.

Your consistent success depends on the pre-season scouting you do to identify the highest success locations, and then following these 10 steps.

If you do that, you can expect consistent hunting success.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/The-Top-10-Ways-to-Hunt-Successfully-From-a-Tree-Stand/92302

Learn How to Find the Best Site for Your Hunting Blind

You can own the best quality blind, be an accurate shooter, and be in an area that is known to hold a lot of animals, but if you don't site your blind in a good spot, your chances of success are slim.

So what is involved in finding a good site for your blind?

To maximize your chances of success, you should start with pre-season scouting. The aim is to find out where the deer bedding areas are, their food sources, and their travel routes in-between the bedding and food sources, in the area you wish to hunt.

Once you have this information, you are in a great position to determine some sites for your blind.

A key point in hunting is that almost all animal activity revolves around food and water, so this is a great place to start.

Look for the food sources in the area you are going to hunt, with your focus on protein rich foods if you are hunting deer. This may include agricultural crops, fruits or stands of oak trees. In wooded areas it is more difficult to determine their food source but may include aspen, aster, red-osier dogwood, clover, and red and white cedar.

If it is difficult to determine what they are eating, focus on their travel movements.

Travel corridors are often located in low areas where they can move without being seen, such as creek bottoms and draws.

They can also include funnels, converging hub , brushy fencerow separating two fields or woodlots, a bench on a ridge, a strip of woods or thickets connecting two woodlots, the edge where two types of vegetation meet, a strip of trees alongside a creek which connects two lots of woods, inside corners or double inside corners, or timber between two clearcuts.

Bedding and hiding areas are often in dense areas or elevated so that it is hard to approach without alerting the animals.

Where you place your blind will be determined by whether you hunt with a bow or a rifle.

If you are using a bow, your shooting lanes will extend out to about 30 yards, so your blind will need to be placed downwind of where you expect to see the deer, but no further than 30 yards.

If you are using a rifle, your distance can be extended depending on the visibility and your accurate firing range. With clear cuts or clearings, you may extend up to 300 yards.

When you set up your blind close to heavily used trails, food sources or water, wherever you can, your chances of success increase if you can set your blind in position up to a week before you intend to use it.

The locations of blinds will not usually produce well right throughout the deer season as deer patterns usually change between pre-rut, peak and post-rut.

The greatest predictor of success will be the amount of information you have before siting your blind.

The more information you have from walking the area, studying aerial photos and topographical maps, and talking to locals and experts, the more knowledgeable you will be about the best sites for your blind.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/Learn-How-to-Find-the-Best-Site-for-Your-Hunting-Blind/92650

How to be a Successful Still Hunter

The term still hunting is a misnomer as the hunter is actually moving around trying to locate deer. It seems a simple way to hunt deer but is a lot harder than it sounds.

That is why most hunters use the 'stand' method where they are stationary in a stand or blind waiting for the deer to come close enough to them to take the shot.

So why is still hunting so difficult?

The hunter, while moving around, has to avoid being detected by:
* Scent
* Sound
* Sight

The deer's ability to utilize scent is legendry. Hunter's scent in some cases has been picked up by deer several hundred yards away.

Deer have excellent vision to pick up movement, so they can easily spot a moving hunter.

Their hearing is also superior with large ears and the ability to move their ears independently to pick up sound direction very well.

So the hunter is at a great disadvantage when moving around still hunting.

To be a successful still hunter, it's important to see the deer before it is aware of you. To do this, you need to avoid being scented, heard or seen.

When you are trying to avoid your scent being delivered to the deer's nose, the key is to use the wind to your advantage.

You should hunt upwind or across the wind. With the wind in your face or your side, it will minimize the chance of your scent alerting the deer to your presence.

Be aware that the surface winds are influenced by the terrain and so using a wind direction device regularly to test the wind direction such as powder or 'floaters' will help ensure wind changes don't catch you by surprise.

Minimizing your sound involves watching where you place your feet so you don't break sticks or make other noise. Wet ground is a great time to hunt as your noise is so much less.

Try to wear clothing such as wool that doesn't make a noise when brushing against vegetation.

To avoid the deer picking up your movement try walking slowing and stopping regularly to look and listen for deer. By stopping every few steps and checking for deer, you are more likely to be aware of the deer before it sees you.

You are less likely to be seen if you walk along edges or fringes rather than in the open. Staying just inside the edge of vegetation rather than in clearings will allow you to remain hidden but still look out into the clearing.

When crossing ridges try to do it using saddles and keep your profile low as you cross over the ridgeline as you stand out against the skyline.

When you are walking around looking for deer, as the vegetation grows upwards, look for any horizontal lines against a lot of vertical vegetation. Sometimes you can also see ears or parts of a deer because other parts are obscured by trees etc.

Deer use their sense of smell as the ultimate determinant of danger. They will usually wait or watch if they hear a noise they are not sure of until they can determine exactly what it is. This can present an opportunity for a shot.

So when still hunting, the most important consideration is to prevent your scent reaching the deer. Hunting upwind or crosswind and constantly re-checking the wind direction will give you an advantage.

Combining the wind direction with quiet, slow movement, and always being on the alert should increase your success when still hunting.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/How-to-be-a-Successful-Still-Hunter/93939

How to Hunt for a Trophy Buck

To consistently shoot trophy bucks, you need to understand their habits.

This means knowing where he eats, drinks, beds, travels, scrapes and hides.

This may sound obvious, but you need to hunt in an area that holds a trophy buck! It doesn't matter how good a hunter you or how great your equipment is, if there isn't a trophy buck in the area you want to hunt, you're not going to shoot one!

So the first step is determining if there is a trophy in your area.

There are several ways of doing this:
* Scouting for sheds
* Setting up a trail cam
* Talking to locals, farmers, rural mail carriers etc
* Driving the roads at dawn and dusk and watching with binoculars
* Scouting for large rubs and large tracks

Your chances are higher of finding a trophy buck in an area if the area has:

* Light hunting pressure
* Low to moderate, rather than high deer numbers
* Buck to doe ratios of about 1:2

In areas where high numbers of antlered deer are taken each year, there are large numbers of does to bucks, and the bucks don't have to engage in competitive behavior and are therefore more difficult to attract with calling and rattling.

Once you have located an area with promise, the next step is working out his food, bedding and travel movements.

Trophy bucks have become the size they are because they have not behaved like younger and smaller bucks.

Their behavior is usually:

* More calm and reasoned
* Quieter and less energetic
* Travels less and usually moves at night
* Has some hiding spots where hunters overlook him

So he is different to most of the other bucks, but not impossible to catch out, especially during the rut. During this time he is still vulnerable to scents, calling and rattling.

He doesn't travel far when spooked, and lies low in places most hunters wouldn't look because the hollow, or thicket, or swampy patch doesn't look big enough.
Your pre-season scouting should have identified these hiding or loafing spots.

During the rut, he doesn't get too caught up in the hype with younger bucks and doesn't pursue the does with as much energy as the younger bucks.

This means when you see a buck pursuing a doe, there is a possibility the big bruiser is in tow but some distance back. Having the discipline to pass up the smaller buck and seeing what else is following can be rewarded with a trophy.

The work involved in patterning your buck may extend over a few seasons, but will be worth it when you admire the rack on the wall.

So the key to successful trophy hunting is preparation, knowledge of your buck, and discipline and patience.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/How-to-Hunt-for-a-Trophy-Buck/92656

Which is the Best Deer Hunting Rifle?

Hunters have never had such a large selection of firearms and cartridges as they do today. For a deer hunter beginner starting out, the decision is a difficult one because there are so many firearms that will do the job.

So how do they go about choosing?

This article is designed to give the beginner some guidance about the most suitable rifles. Experienced hunters will already have made their choices and will probably have strong views about the 'best' rifle for them.

It is important to state that there is no 'perfect' or 'right' rifle for deer hunting. Many hunters swear by certain calibres, but equally there are others who will argue for differing calibres.

The debate will never reach agreement because in the end it comes down to personal preference.

However, to assist the beginner, this article will focus on rifles, and not cover muzzleloaders, handguns or shotguns.

Most decisions revolve around the action and the calibre.

The action is the mechanical means by which the cartridge is delivered from the magazine to the chamber. The simplest action is the single shot bolt action. This is a very popular action because of its accuracy and reliability.

A lever action has a lever next to the trigger that is moved forward and then moved backwards and this action removes the previous empty cartridge and replaces it with a new cartridge. It is a popular rifle from the western movies and is chosen for its speed.

Pump actions and semi-automatic actions are rapid firing mechanisms that can cause problems due to jamming or failing due to not being clean and maintained.

The next decision is to choose a calibre.

The most popular hunted animal in America is the whitetail deer which has a relatively light bone structure. Small calibre cartridges such as the .22 are unsuitable.

Low velocity, medium calibres like the 30.30 Winchester or .300 Savage were very popular and are suitable for accurate shots up to about 150 yards.

High velocity, smaller calibres such as .243 Winchester, .260 Remington and 6mm Remington increase the effective range out to about 250 yards, however the projectile weights tend to be light.

High velocity, medium weight calibres offer the best versatility and are good up to about 300 yards. The calibres include examples like the .308 Winchester, 30.06 Springfield, .270 Winchester and the .280 Remington.

The bullet weights usually range between 150-180 grains; however they can go as low as 130 and up to 220 grains.

They are ideal for the whitetail, including the larger bodied northern whitetail bucks, and even elk and caribou.

The short magnums are suited for long distance (greater than 300 yards) because of their flat trajectory.

The rifles can come with synthetic or wooden stocks, and stainless or blued actions and barrels. This is really a personal preference.

So for a deer hunter starting out who is confused by the large selection of rifles for deer hunting, the best versatility is offered by high velocity, medium calibres such as the .308 Winchester, .270 Winchester, 30.06 Springfield and the .280 Remington, with loads ranging between 150 and 180 grains.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/Which-is-the-Best-Deer-Hunting-Rifle-/93971